In the early morning, a serene orange glow fills the sky as the sun gradually ascends over the vast expanse of the desert. Every few hours, herders emerge into view, leading flocks of sheep and goats toward the nearby water well. The only sounds are the gentle whispers of the wind, the brays and barks of native wildlife, and occasional rumblings of 4×4 vehicles transporting new arrivals. This is the unique and isolated wilderness experience offered by the Three Camel Lodge, an eco-resort located in Bulgan, Mongolia’s Gobi Desert, one of the most remote regions on our planet.
Far removed from civilization, the lodge provides visitors with an intimate glimpse into Mongolia’s traditional nomadic way of life—a community reliant on domesticated livestock to thrive on the vast Central Asia plateau. While nomadic cultures have become increasingly scarce worldwide, they remain a vital part of Mongolian society. Presently, nomads make up about one-quarter of Mongolia’s population, which exceeds 3 million people.
The Three Camel Lodge comprises 40 gers, traditional round tent-like dwellings constructed from wood, felt, and rope—materials chosen for their portability, ease of assembly, and resilience against the desert’s formidable winds. Inside, the setup is minimalist, featuring wooden furnishings and simple décor. However, each ger boasts amenities rarely found in a traditional nomad’s abode, such as a private bathroom equipped with running water and electricity generated by solar panels.
Surprisingly, the Three Camel Lodge also houses an on-site restaurant, a well-stocked bar with an impressive whiskey selection, and even a spa, a touch of luxury amid this remote landscape.
The Birth of Three Camel Lodge: The visionary behind the Three Camel Lodge is Jalsa Urubshurow, a 68-year-old Mongolian-American entrepreneur. Growing up in the United States during the 1960s, he could only dream of Mongolia’s dramatic landscapes. Nevertheless, his father’s colorful tales of Mongolian culture left a lasting impression. Jalsa’s father, originally from Kalmykia (now part of southern Russia), instilled in him a sense of Mongolian heritage.
In the early 1990s, when Mongolia opened its borders to international tourists, Jalsa seized the opportunity to visit for the first time. His prior exposure to Mongolian culture had been limited to attending Mongolian weddings in New Jersey. This journey invoked a myriad of emotions, prompting Jalsa to venture into the Mongolian countryside, where he met herders and stayed in ger camps—a transformative experience.
Shortly thereafter, Jalsa was entrusted by Mongolia’s prime minister with the task of attracting more Western travelers. In 1992, he founded Nomadic Expeditions, a travel services company offering tours in Mongolia and other countries. However, it wasn’t until 2002 that Jalsa decided to create something more enduring in the Gobi, thus giving birth to the Three Camel Lodge.
A Land of Dinosaurs and Flaming Cliffs: The Gobi Desert is renowned as the “land of the dinosaurs” and is deeply ingrained in Mongolian culture. A mere half-hour drive from the Three Camel Lodge leads to one of the world’s most significant dinosaur fossil sites—Bayanzag. Over a century ago, explorers made the first scientifically recognized discovery of dinosaur eggs here. The site earned the moniker “The Flaming Cliffs” due to the red sandstones that seemingly come alive at sunset, bathing the entire area in fiery hues. To this day, dinosaur fossils continue to be unearthed at this location.
Moltsog Els, a 15-minute drive from the lodge, offers guests the opportunity to explore sand dunes, a rare sight in the Mongolian Gobi. Here, visitors can traverse the dunes on foot or rent a camel from local herding families.
Beyond dunes and red cliffs, the Gobi is celebrated for its verdant landscapes. Located an hour’s drive from the lodge, Yol Valley was originally established to conserve birdlife, including the Yol, or bearded vulture. Travelers can also venture to the protected Gobi Gurvan Sakihan National Park, teeming with biodiversity, from white gazelles to leopards and golden eagles. The valley, with its brook running through a deep and narrow gorge, is perfect for exploration on foot or horseback, especially during the summer months.
Additional Experiences and Sustainability: The Three Camel Lodge offers a range of activities, including nomadic archery sessions, stargazing, cycling, and cooking classes. However, the lodge’s commitment to sustainability sets it apart. Embracing three core principles—sustainable stewardship, preservation, and community empowerment—the lodge has made significant strides in reducing its environmental footprint.
Initiatives include eliminating single-use plastic bottles and providing metal reusable tumblers to guests, establishing a comprehensive waste management system to divert garbage from landfills through composting, and harnessing solar panels for lighting. Materials used for construction, furniture, and décor are sourced locally within a 50-mile radius of the lodge.
The lodge’s sustainable ethos extends to the local community, with nearly 30 full-time Mongolian staff who share a commitment to preserving their environment and culture. Investment in the broader Gobi community includes support for educational programs and collaboration with international paleontological organizations to safeguard dinosaur fossils.
Getting There: Reaching and departing from the Three Camel Lodge is not for the faint of heart, given its remote location. The journey from Mongolia’s capital, Ulaanbaatar, involves a seven to eight-hour drive to the Gobi—a daunting prospect for many travelers. Although flights to the Gobi are available, they often depart in the middle of the night and arrive at Dalanzadgad Airport just as the sun rises. From there, it’s another hour-long car ride across the roadless desert to reach the lodge, which emerges on the horizon like an oasis.
Returning from the Gobi can be even more challenging, with flights back to the capital frequently canceled with minimal notice, especially during winter months when some flights don’t operate at all.
The Three Camel Lodge typically opens for business from May to November. Jalsa hopes for increased government support to enhance logistics and extend the annual tourism season, even if only slightly, by subsidizing domestic air travel to make more regions within the country accessible to travelers. He believes this presents a wonderful opportunity to promote tourism and has been working diligently for over 30 years to place Mongolia on the global tourism map.